Antipasto: the ritual that starts the Holidays
During the Holidays, food takes the centre stage, laid out on decorated, lavishly set tables, where antipasto (appetizer) is always the first invitation to sit down and join the celebration: a gesture of hospitality and a small gastronomic preview that prepares the stomach and palate to enjoy the rest of the feast. This tradition dates back to Ancient Rome, where small dishes were served to introduce diners to the main courses. In the Middle Ages we have few traces of this custom, but it flourished again between the Renaissance and the nineteenth century, when antipasto became a truly essential element for opening an important meal.
In Italy, antipasto is much more than a simple introduction: it tells the story of ingredients and traditions that vary dramatically from region to region, intertwining as well with the custom of the aperitivo, the “liquid” and often alcoholic counterpart of antipasto.
During the Christmas season, each region enriches its table with antipasti that evoke family and memories. In Piedmont, among the most famous are vitello tonnato, Russian salad, cured meats served with homemade giardiniera, and vol-au-vent (a legacy of the neighbouring French), while in Lombardy typical cured meats such as bresaola or slinzega and insalata di nervetti are never missing. Northern regions overlooking the Adriatic offer seafood antipasti even on Christmas Eve, such as gamberi in saor, cuttlefish, and baccalà mantecato in Veneto, while in Trentino–Alto Adige flavours are tied to mountain products like speck, seasoned cheeses, and spiced bread.
Moving down toward central Italy, in Tuscany the famous crostino with chicken livers opens almost every important meal, accompanied by artisanal cured meats, while in Lazio, Christmas Eve dinner is dominated by fried foods: cod, artichokes, and light fritters that usher in the joyful atmosphere of the festive days.
Further south, in Campania Christmas often begins with seafood or octopus salad and the inevitable marinated anchovies, while the next day local cured meats, fresh ricotta, and small fried pizzas appear. In Apulia, antipasto is an abundant ritual: small focaccias, seasoned olives, friselle with tomatoes, cheeses, and battered vegetables open lunches and dinners that seem endless. Sicily brings the legacy of its many dominations, offering caponata, arancine, fish croquettes, and candied citrus fruits.
Our journey stops here, but every corner of Italy has its own gastronomic tradition, multiplied even further by family variations of each dish… and the Christmas antipasto is no exception, becoming a mix of local ingredients, affectionate gestures, and a pinch of creativity. It is the gateway to those special days of the year in which cooking means sharing, celebrating, and savoring the anticipation of the lavish courses to come.